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  • SURFING AROUND ORCAS IN RAGLAN

    A short very sweet getaway to Raglan for surf, breaching orcas, unrivalled sunsets and learning what a rāhui is. Today's journal entry is all about the first visit of 2025 to one of my favourite places in Aotearoa New Zealand: Raglan. But before we begin, a little disclaimer (or skip the next bit and get straight to Where: When: What). As the name suggests, I'm mad about sports. I'm also a big fan of travelling. At some point I realised that I was travelling to certain places at certain times of the year for the purpose of doing certain sports. Mix that with being a creative *cue eye roll* taking a break from industry, I started craving a playful space to document my adventures, keep my skills in check, and keep people in the loop with goings on. So that's what this is, and it's evolving from here on out. The biggest plus would be if there's anything in what I share that gives you ideas or tips on where to go when and for what sport. That'd be RAD. Right, let's get into today's post... Where: Raglan, Aotearoa / New Zealand When: February / Summer What: Surfing (Longboard / Shortboard) Since my first visit to Raglan, about this time last year, I can't stay away. If the name rings a bell, chances are it's because it was put on the map in Bruce Brown's cult surfing documentary film, The Endless Summer (1966). Some sites might give you the impression that the best time of year to visit for surfing is between March and June, b ut honestly, it's consistent all year. I f dreamy cruisey longboarding in a 2mm shorty suit, one piece or boardies in the summer is your jam, Raglan is a place you'll likely want to tick off if you're this way of the world. Saying that, it can also get BIG . One particular bay here is a world-renowned reserve and hosts surf comps which are incredible to watch. Personally, I've spent the last few days riding 2-4ft peelers in beautiful 28°C weather - heaps of fun with my 6'9 Anderson Fish; Pamela. There's also been a quiet kind of magic about right now. Luckily for me, this surfaced the day I came back... After a nearly four hour drive from the Coromandel, I was itching to park up and jump in the water. But when I arrived at one of my favourite spots, I was a little alarmed see it cordoned off with flags. Added to that, no-one was surfing and larger than normal groups of people were gathered on the ground. I had no idea what was going on: a competition? A protest? Something else? Later I learned that this was a rāhui, which Stuff NZ and Greenpeace describe as a tikanga (customary practise) that prohibits access to an area, either on water, land or resources . After a while, flags were lifted and someone with a speakerphone invited people back into the water. I still wasn't sure what prompted it, then a clue came about at 19:06pm. Standing on the beach top further around the bay, I was umming an ahhing whether or not to head in for a dip. The rāhui was over, but ever since someone told me it's best to avoid surfing around sunrise or sunset when marine life is more actively hunting, I can hesitate. That's when I saw what the fuss might've been about: a huge orca jumped right out of the water! I've never seen an orca breach before, let alone see one that size, at golden hour. It was mesmerising. A few minutes passed, and with it telltale signs of pod began to show. What felt surreal was how the surfers and swimmers nearby seemed totally unaware of the four or five orcas near them - no-one reacted or rushed to get out (or in). The next day whilst sitting in the line-up, I got chatting with a small crew who said that a few days earlier they noticed orcas were in the water maybe fifty metres away. They added that there were a few people surfing at the time and amazingly no-one panicked - mostly because a couple of calm heads just pointed the fins out, kept everyone steady and framed it for what it was: a rare gift. Thinking back to the rāhui, maybe it had something to do with giving the orcas their space. This has been a talking point lately . Then again, it could have been about something else - perhaps safety? Crowded line-ups and the rise of "party waves" can be a bit chaotic. For anyone new to surfing, there's kind of a code to follow to keep everyone safe and have fun. Across Aotearoa New Zealand, there are some really helpful information boards dotted around surf spots to remind people of some surfing etiquette basics, including how to tell who has right of way (or right of wave) . I don't remember seeing much of that back in the UK, and honestly think it's pretty cool, so I added a photo of one at bottom of this post. If you're curious about this kind of thing, or know someone who might be, there's heaps of free information about surfing etiquette on sites like Surfline or OMBE Surf too. On a related note, it's a bit of a thing not to give away the exact location of surf spots. Why? It's a courtesy thing to help keep locals' favourite breaks from being overrun while still sharing the stoke. That's why I'll mention a region in my posts or talk about well-known area, but try to keep it general. If you do visit Raglan, there are also a few gems to discover in this fantastic little town. Think great coffee, tasty food, drinks with a view, surf shops and boutiques. There are also other outdoor adventure sports to be tried, often run by local companies who organise trips. Maybe the next time I'm here, I'll have managed to squeeze in one of these, especially if the surf's blown out! The sunsets happen to be stunning, too. Summer here is beautiful. I'm told it drops off at winter and becomes sleepy as well as cooler - but maybe, just maybe, I'll have to discover this for myself. In the meantime, the sun's starting to shine again, and I hear it's pumping... That’s a wrap on today's Sports Nut Soph blog entry, cheers heaps for stopping by. If you feel like getting social, or you're just plain curious to see a few behind-the-scenes of what I'm up to on the journeys, follow @sportsnutsoph on Instagram. You can also subscribe to my newsletter for upcoming trip itineraries, tips on where to go when for what and other exciting info... like my shop *COMING SOON * . Until next time, ciao for now, Soph. This post is unsponsored. Whilst writing, I cross-checked a few things from sources including: Department of Conservation (DOC) | OMBE Surf | How to Rip (with Kale Brock) | Greenpeace | Surfline | Surf-forecast | LOCAL RAG. Raglan New and Visitor Guide | NewZealand.com | The Endless Summer (1966, Bruce Brown) | BBC Earth Sunset, Raglan, Feb 2025. Surfing, Raglan Feb, 2025. Party Wave, Raglan Feb, 2025. Surfers Code Board, Raglan Feb, 2025.

  • HIKING TO BREWSTER HUT AND BREWSTER GLACIER

    River crossings, forest, bush, mountain ridges, a glacier and luminously turquoise waters. The bar’s been set potentially (definitely) unforgivingly high. This hike’s a knockout! Approaching Brewster Glacier, West Coast, South Island, NZ. Feb 2025. Kia ora, g'day, hey hey. Today's journal entry covers a group of girls hiking - or “tramping” if you’re a Kiwi or an Aussie - to Brewster Hut and Brewster Glacier on the West Coast of the South Island. This was my first multi-day hike, which was special enough in itself, but even more so because I got to share the experience with one of my good friends. Nawww! Before we begin, a little keep in mind (or skip to Where: When: What). As the name suggests, I'm mad about sports, a fan of travelling and I’ve started playfully documenting these adventures as Sports Nut Soph. If there's anything in what I share that gives you ideas or tips on where to go when for what sport, that’s rad. Let's get into it… Where: West Coast, South Island, Aotearoa / New Zealand When: February / Summer What: Hiking / Tramping The hike to Brewster Hut and Brewster Glacier is jaw-dropping, boasting breath-taking views of Mount Aspiring National Park. If you want the nitty-gritty, AllTrails writes this one up as a 5.3-km out-and-back trail, with 966m elevation gain , and caution of avalanche, particularly from winter to spring. Some people will make it up to Brewster Hut and back down in a day, but the hut and track are iconic (and pretty hardcore), so we did an overnighter. For anyone who has this one on their radar and fancies staying in the alpine 12 bunk hut like we did, you’ll need to book in advance through DOC. Likewise, tenting outside is an option. The hike starts at Fantail Falls carpark on the Haast Pass-Makarora Road SH6. Speaking from experience, if you’re heading over from Queenstown the drive’s about 2 hours, dotted with beautiful views of Lake Hāwea and one or two cafes that might  be open, depending on how early you’re on the road. Parking at Fantails is free, but it gets busy.  From the car park, there’s a short gravelly path to walk along, leading to the Haast River, which you cross. The morning of our hike was a calm, sun-kissed summer’s day in the middle of a dry spell. Whilst the river was pretty shallow, we still had to take our shoes off as the water came up to our knees (nothing when you consider that it can be dangerous and impassable here, especially during or after heavy rain or snowmelt).  Crossing the Haast River. On that note, I’m going to be frank about temperatures; the water’s cold . And it only gets cooler because from hereon out, you’re heading up to the glacier. It’s probably common sense, but just for the sake of mentioning it, wearing shorts is likely a good shout when it comes to crossing fords on foot as you won’t want cold, wet trousers clinging to your legs on your hike or soaking through your back-pack, adding weight as well. After crossing the river, it’s a steep, uphill ascend scrambling over tree roots and rocks for a couple of hours through sheltered beech forest. Markings wise, the route’s DOC signposted at the start, then peppered with orange triangle markers to help guide you the way. We reached this not long after starting the hike at 9:30am, so it felt fresh, but you quickly get a sweat on. My advice is start with layers, and take these off as you go. Bonus if you’ve got anything moisture-wicking, a cagoule too. Hiking up tree roots and rocks on the way to the hut. Passing some orange track markers on the way up to Brewster Hut. I think the track can be quite slippery when there’s been rainfall, but when we did it, it was dusty with nice, soft mushy areas underfoot because the ground was dry. Whatever the weather, sturdy, comfortable hiking boots with plenty of grip is a definite. Not to sound drastic, but rolling your feet a few times is likely because the track is a “Tramping Track”, rather than a solid man-made path. Some of us without poles, myself included, did our fair share of tree-hugging here too whilst clambering up, more so the next day coming back down. A couple of hours later, forest starts to clear to bush and the views start to become very special. From this point on until the hut, the ascend is still very steep, and it gets increasingly windy and exposed. As a side note, although day 1 of this hike started off with blue skies and no wind, the afternoon brought with it thick clouds with a few gusts that by day 2, were knocking us about.  Around the 3 hour mark we caught a glimpse of red over a peak, promising to be the Brewster Hut -a very welcome sight! For anyone else who’ll do this hike, enjoy a break when you reach the Hut. Refuel, rehydrate, recharge and take in the surrounds, especially if you’re going to tramp all the way to the glacier. We had lunch on the deck looking at the waterfall, reapplied sunscreen, spotted a few keas flying about, changed, and left a few things that weren’t needed for the afternoon on our beds. On the way to Brewster Glacier, looking back at Brewster Hut. Post pit-stop, we made our way to the glacier. The terrain is unmarked, but keep an eye out along the way for the odd cairn (small piles of rocks marketing a track). You get an awesome sense of achievement from hiking to the glacier but I caveat this with a couple of things to have the best experience: Good visibility, with little to no wind is fundamental. This section is really exposed and the kind of rock you scramble over can be chalky and crumbly in patches, so help keep yourself and others safe on this stretch by trying it in the best sort if weather. Plus, as always, check the weather before heading out, and for safety reasons let people know where you’re going and when. My go-to for forecasts is MetService, out of habit from working on the mountain last snow season. Only hike if you’ve got the energy and are experienced. You’ll need to be alert and able to pull yourself up over areas. You might also need to look out for others. Not to scaremonger, but sadly accidents and fatalities have happened in this area. Have the right equipment. Make sure you’re confident making your way over this section with what you’re wearing, and what you have on you. One of the girls had a great idea and packed a beacon, hired from MacPac, I believe. Hike, or tramp, in a group. It adds to the enjoyment of it all, encourages support amongst each other (maybe a little light roasting too, at times) and creates the opportunity to bond and share some wonderful memories of an experience that not many people get to have. Plus, generally speaking, there’s safety in numbers. As a side note, I do my fair bit of aerial arts and climbing, so I’m no stranger to heights, but not being tied into anything snaking across this landscape definitely offered a different sensation. Admittedly, I was grateful for the girls’ stoke! Roughly 1.5-2h after leaving the hut, we reached the glacier, and were TRANSFIXED by the views. Tempting as it was to duck out of a full plunge, we all dipped. Was it chilly? Hells yeah! It was body cramping f*cking freezing. But man, what a box to tick. We’ve got a funny video of us doing this, ending with a slight Hunger Games moment as we raced out the water to lay on the surrounding warm rocks. On that note, do your future self a favour before jumping in anywhere that’s low temp by getting a towel, beanie hat and layers ready to change into quickly. Having some kind of a waterproof bag to keep your wet things in is a good shout too. Rather than say too much, I’ll let the photos and videos speak for themselves. This day was a stunner...  Above and below: Brewster Glacier. Chilly dip in the lake. Somewhere around the 5pm mark, after exploring the glacier (and hearing it crack) we started back-tracking to Brewster Hut for food and a night’s kip. If you’re after culinary advice, take mine with a pinch of salt because I probably committed a cardinal sin in hiking by taking a Tupperware. Hear me out; I knew I was going to be hungry and wiped at the end of the day - anyone who knows me will be aware this is DANGEROUS territory. Rather than risk an episode of hangriness turning me into a being representative of one of the purple monsters from Despicable Me 2, I took a pre-cooked batch of spinach, egg pasta, pesto sauce pine nuts and mushrooms (something healthy, substantial and that wouldn’t spoil in changing temperatures).  Je ne regrette rien: tucking into the bulk of that prepped goodness after exercising for the best part of 10 hours, then conking out, was a vibe. It was also handy having a sealed, hole-free, leak-proof box to put rubbish in after too. The girls all took dehydrated meals which only needed water adding to them, and we all also packed a few snacks like protein bars. By the by, something to be mindful of re the hut is there’s an outside loo, a sink and some water, but no cooking facilities. Oddly enough though, there is signal. Drinking wise, I packed 2L water. This was all gone by the time we’d gotten to the glacier. In fact, I actually ended up topping up my bottle there. The morning of day 2, looking towards the glacier, from the hut. The journey back down the next morning just after sunrise took a little less time than it did to get up to the hut. For a quick recap, it takes about 3-3.5hours to get from Fantails to Brewster Hut, roughly 1.5 hours from the hut to the glacier, the same back, and around 2.5-3 hours from the hut to Fantails.  That’s a wrap on today's Sports Nut Soph blog entry, cheers heaps for stopping by. If you feel like getting social, or you're just plain curious to see a few behind-the-scenes of what I'm up to, follow me on insta at @sportsnutsoph.  Until next time, ciao, adios for now, Soph. This post is unsponsored. Whilst writing, I cross-checked a few things from some trusted sources including: Department of Conservation (DOC) | AllTrails | MetService | Lake Wānaka Tourism | MacPac | Kathmandu. And NZ Bush Adventures | Kenver | Tracks Less Travelled | Backyard Travel Family. PS Here's a little checklist of what I took. Feel free to adapt: Backpack  Empty rubbish bags Food for lunch and dinner.  Fork, plater, Tupperware, mug - whatever plastic or wooden crockery that takes your fancy. Snacks (nuts, fruit, protein bars) Water Tramping shoes Bed socks Undies Toothbrush and paste Beanie Cap Sunnies Sleeping bag (you can get cheap ones at department stores like K-Mart, but I’d highly recommend going to a proper outdoors shop and speaking to the staff there about when you’re adventuring and where. I‘m pretty sure I bought my sleeping bag from Kathmandu and it’s a -4°C spec). Togs (for swimming).  T-Shirts (I got through 3 on day 1, but I sweat. A lot. The weather changes on a mountain too, that’s for sure). Thermal top Fleece Cajoule or puffa jacket Buff Leggings or sports tights. Shorts. Hiking socks. Factor 50 sunscreen. Mini med kit: plasters, ibuprofen, paracetamol, anti bacterial gel, tissues, lip balm, insect repellent, aloe. Phone, phone cable and battery pack (charged). Torch, with batteries. You might also want: Hair ties and brush Beacon Hiking poles Glacial equipment Gloves and extra warm layers if you do this hike winter or early spring time. Camera, if you’re a photography enthusiast or a pro. And the memory card and battery - try to avoid leaving this on charge at home. Little extra from me to you - put any keys you have somewhere safe and easily accessible in your bag, so you don’t have to frantically sift through the entirety of your contents like the Tasmanian Devil in the hut or at the car park.

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